Joie De Vivre NYC

One of the primary reasons for visiting Montreal is to eat.  This city loves to eat and you can see it in the way your waiter describes his favorite dessert or when the chef presents his plates to you.

Quail with wild rice and Hanger Steak with shallot butter and fries

The first day in Montreal, May - Mei and I walked down Rue Saint - Denis on the hunt for lunch. We looked at several restaurants until May - Mei spotted a table of older women in full view behind a large window. We wandered over and looked at the menu and I noticed it was L'Express and explained to her that it's one of the most famous French restaurants in Montreal.  I asked her if she was ok with the price point since it is more on the expensive side for lunch and she was more than happy to oblige.

We entered and were immediately greeted in French by the host but all I can muster was "bon jour" and a meek smile as I switched over to English and asked for a table for two.  The hot said he'd have to check for a table and went over to his computer to look.  We waited for about five minutes when hecame back and explained that today we were lucky as there was a cancellation.

He led us to the back and as we walked through the restaurant, it was definitely packed with older, well dressed guests.

We were seated near a family of six and as we sat down, our host provided us with English menus but the specials were in French.

I read the menu in French and it was fun to decipher what everything meant then looked over to the English menu to see if my translation proved correct.

Cafe au lait

May - Mei decided to order the Quail with wild rice and I definitely wanted something hearty so I ordered the hanger steak with shallot butter and fries.

When the plates arrived, I was impressed by the presentation of the quail as it was artfully placed on the plate to represent a blooming flower.  We were provided with a full jar of cornichons with chopsticks to pick them up.  I'm not a fan of pickles so May - Mei had the whole jar to herself.

We shared our plates per our usual custom when we eat together.  Quail is usually not a favorite dish of mine but I absolutely loved the hanger steak!  It was juicy, tender and the shallot butter on top provided enough flavor.

I was full by the time we finished the meal and to my surprise, May - Mei wanted dessert.  Usually, I tend to ask my friends to look at the dessert menu but this time May - Mei  wanted a full meal.

We pored over the menu then asked our waiter for recommendations.  What was interesting to notice was he was happy to take the time explain four to five desserts to us.  He explained that the creme caramel and orange was the one of the best sellers.  However, the dish that was the most appetizing was the apple pie. He explained that when the apple pie is being prepared, the apple pie is flipped over and baked.   May - Mei and I consulted each other and decided to share while she ordered a cafe au lait.  I didn't think much about coffee at the end of the meal but when the apple pie arrived with the cafe au lait, I went "whoa."

Apple pie at L'Express

Everything that L'Express executes is an art form.  The service is warm and attentive and you can truly see the waiters love their job.  What gives it the added charm are the pictures of the whole staff that were taken each year since their inception in 1980.  It was great to see certain men age throughout the years.

It's definitely a place I would return to when I am in Montreal.  The meals are delicious, the place is good for dates and families and it's just a wonderful way to spend an afternoon or evening sharing with people you love.

Fall colors of Montreal

Fall is one of my favorite seasons and not because my birthday happens around this time, but because the air is a little cooler and comfort food in this weather feels just right.

I also usually try to take vacations around this time since prices tend to be lower and you're more likely to interact with the locals instead of the onslaught of tourists.

May - Mei and I were planning to vacation together for some time but due to my work schedule, it was advised to take the trip at another time so we decided on a weekend in Montreal.  I haven't been back to Montreal since 2009 for New Year's Eve so this time, there would be much more to eat and see!

Spiral staircases around the area

Yellow house in Montreal

May - Mei found a cute B&B in the Plateau - Mont Royal and she was nice enough to accompany me to a couple restaurants I've been dying to go to such as the new Montreal Plaza and the gluttonous Au Pied de Cochon.  A majority of the houses in the neighborhood had the distinct, spiral staircases which adds to the charm.  However, what's great about this neighborhood is the proximity to the restaurants and bars  that you could walk to so I could only imagine what the summertime would be like with everyone out and about.

I also noticed the bicyclists were much more polite as they gave us right of way when we crossed rather than having a surly "watch out" as others sped by at top speed, nearly knocking us over in New York City.

It was great walking around the neighborhood, observing the designs of the different houses and wondering how people could climb up these crazy steps in the icy, winter without hurting themselves.

I also forget how quickly you can get to one destination to another since the blocks are much shorter than New York City blocks and less foot traffic.

Vegetables at the Jean - Talon market

There's always something magical about walking through a farmer's market and May - Mei and I spent our Sunday eating our way through the Jean Talon market in Montreal.  It was fall in Montreal but it didn't deter people from stopping by even though throughout the day, a few flurries appeared.

Corn and gourds

I was impressed by the vibrant colors of the vegetables and the smell of roasting meat permeated the air.  As I walked through the aisles, I imagined my grandparents enjoying this experience.  My grandfather, who was a farmer, would talk to the other farmers about the soil, harvest and the weather.

large pumpkin and a butter pastry

My grandmother would look over the meat and speak with the butchers about the cuts.  Then we would have lunch at one the restaurants the lined the outer perimeter of the market after purchasing a few days worth of fruits and vegetables.

The outer perimeter of the market is lined by a few restaurants specializing in pastries, cheese or offered brunch / lunch as a respite from shopping.

I ended up buying maple syrup, some Halloween chocolates from Chocolats Privilège, and sparking cider from Maisons des vins et boissons artisanales.  All the purveyors were friendly as they explained their products to us and offered us samples.

Despite all the samples May - Mei and I experienced, we also ate brunch at a cute tea parlor where she had a tartine and tea while I had a salmon omelette with fresh mangoes and strawberries drizzled with a bit of vinaigrette. It took some time for the plates to come but I think it was part of spending a leisurely afternoon in the cafe, people watching.

Brunch and teacups